If anyone else has done this, I would like to know what gauge you used and/or some tips on going about it. So this means either I find a way to house the same size volt meter in the 66 cluster in place of the ammeter, or I will need to just disconnect the ammeter and not have any meter at all! I do "not" want to use an external gauge outside of the instrument cluster. I know the wiring may be different, and know that will have to be modified. Is there a volt meter that will fit into the 66 cluster in place of the ammeter? even if it means some "minor" modification to the housing. I want to go with at least a 100 amp alternator, meaning I should probably change over to a volt meter. So here's my dilemma, The original ammeter in the instrument cluster works great but if I recall only is sufficient to about 60 amps. These Indiglo pads do for the instrument lighting what LED's do for tail lights! I can actually see the gauges now at night! :: I already have an idea on how to do this, so that's not the problem. So I would have to modify the pad to work with the volt meter which will also make the face look similar to stock. I just purchased and have already installed the new Indiglo light pads on my instrumentation for my 66. After reading the title I'm confused as well. cracker289 connect the damn wires and thats a wrap.Yep, I know. something with continuous power there has to do something inside the relay. so i pop the hood and that wire feel off bc i bumped it. i went in to try and start my car not a damn thing. a while back i was replacing an exhaust gasket when i knocked this wire off of the starter relay. it was pretty much connected before.or cracker just remove the entire two wires from everything.ran out to my car in the freezing rain with no socks on. but can you just agree with us that it will be ok to connect the two wires? or no. relax veronica not trying to talk any smack. ![]() so cracker289 if your car dies on the high way bc you didnt connect those wires blame you know who. veronica is always right, well has been so far in every post that ive typed something in. so there has to be a reason why ford made it a circuit. the red and black goes from the amp gauge to the "starter relay" the yellow and black goes from the gauge to the alternator then continues on to the "starter relay".įor any wiring plan of a mustang. two wires red and looks like black and black and yellow. if you could trace your wires to see where they go and if they go to those positive battery wires that would indicate to me that you would need to splice those two wires together or you could remove one and connect the other to the battery wires.Īgain if there is one thing i'm 100% sure of is that if you simply unhook your existing ampmeter, what ever is on the onther end of it, will not work. I did not touch the existing amp meter wiring. The other side of the gauge just grounds under the dash. According to the wiring instructions I simply ran it off the switched (run not start) side of the ignition. i'm almost certain that it would go to one of the wires that connect to the positive battery terminal( that is where it would conect on a cheby) via the starter relay or solinoid. Don’t know if this helps, but I just installed a volt meter on my ‘66. after looking at my mustang tonight it would not be so easy to figure out where to hook up the ampmeter. With that said, most of my experience with automotive ampmeters is from along time ago and on gm's. i'm also assumimg that you are wanting to remove an after market ampmeter. Im back, and i will say sorry for starting this mess but i'm only thinking of your battery and will it charge or not if you follow the advice of just cutting and taping up the wires that go to your ampmeter. the electric meter on your house is kind of an ampmerer and if you take it out you will have no power to you house. I'm sorry if i'm not making too much sents as it been too many years since i'm even thought of this stuff, just belib me when i say that when you remove the ampmeter from whatever curcuit it's in the circuit will be open and therefore no longer funtion. since the ampmeter to work properly must he connected in series with in the charging system to simply remove it with out spliceing the wires would create an open circuit and you woud no longer charge the battery. once the battery is back up to charge the voltage regulator will start to lower the voltage from the alternater and you will see the ampmeter start to return to the middle or just to the positive side. as soon as the engine is started you will see the ampmeter in the positive, meaning it's charging the battery as you just drained the battery to start the motor or had the lights on. ![]() if you have an ampmeter that's operating properly when you start the engine or say have the headlites on with engine off you will see the amp meter reading negative. The amp meter reads the juice used by what ever circuit it is in line with, generally the chargeing system, to read if the alt is charging ( reading in the+ range) or discharging (reading in the - range).
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